Question:
We are a traditional sushi concept. We have an excellent sake list, Japanese beers and whiskeys, which is what a good sushi restaurant in Japan would have. But we keep being asked for a wine list or bottles of champagne. Do you think I should give in?
– Owner
Answer:
The balance between giving guests what they ask for and preserving the integrity of your concept and vision is a tricky one, and one that comes up a lot in this column. No one would be surprised if they asked for a rare cognac at a dive bar and it wasn’t available; just as no one would be surprised if their favorite flavor of energy drink was not available as a mixer at an upscale cocktail lounge. On the other hand, good operators pride themselves on listening to their guests and adapting to changing demands in the marketplace.
One question to ask is if you need the business. Are you a hot spot with a waiting list where preserving the integrity of your vision and concept are paramount? Or are you looking for opportunities to get butts in seats and increase check averages? Since margins on wine can be generous, the business decision may trump the artistic vision.
If you decide to keep to your sake list, be sure that (1) it is accessible to a wide variety of palates and occasions and (2) that service staff is trained to steer the guest. For example, the guest who asks for champagne may be disappointed initially but might be wowed that you’ve thoughtfully recommended a sparkling sake for their celebration instead.
My advice is to listen to your guests and offer a small, thoughtful wine list that pairs well with sushi, heavy on the sparkling and crisp whites. The sushi market is competitive and only getting more so. You are not being asked to do something damaging to your business but rather to please guests, earn revenue and margin, and provide hospitality. Sure, it may be inauthentic, but you are operating a Japanese restaurant in the U.S.—there are probably multiple compromises that could be pointed out. Finally, notions of traditional Japanese dining are also changing. Even in Japan, wines are popping up as beverage suggestions with traditional Japanese dishes.
More on wine lists here.